Our trip started in Yangon, Myanmar (formerly Burma). A few years ago when
the present government took over they changed all the names in Burma. Yangon
used to be Rangoon.The highlight of the city is the Shwedagon Pagoda. Said to
be 2500 years, this most holy of all Buddhist shrines in Myanmar epitomizes
the serene grace of the country. Visited the National Museum with its enormous
Lion Throne and Mandalay Regalia, and the nearby reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi.
Took a flight to the Shan States in eastern Myanmar which is the home to many
of the hill tribes with their black robes and colorful turquoise turbans. Next
we spent a couple days on Inle Lake famous for its floating gardens and villages
built on stilts. A snarl of lake silt and weed produces a thick layer of humus
that can then be turned into a floating vegetable or flower garden buoyant enough
to support a human's weight for a time. The villagers tend their lake gardens
from long, banana-shaped boats, and row standing up, with one leg wrapped around
the oar, leaving both hands free to fish or maneuver the nets. Mandalay, the
last Burmese Royal capital before the British annexation was next on our trip.
The cultural heart of Myanmar, Mandalay is a city where traditional crafts,
gold and silver working, tapestry making, and marble and teak carving of exquisite
quality abound. Next stop was Bagan to begin our exploration of the Plain of
Temples. A forest of pagodas, large and small, rises up from the delta, marking
the site of a great deserted royal city, and giving glorious testimony to the
enduring Buddhist practice of the Burmese. Bagan's temples are endlessly different
and fascinating; each one with its own legend. Then we boarded the Pandaw a
riverboat for a two-day trip down the Irawaddy River back to Mandalay. The Irawaddy
can rise a staggering 100 feet during the monsoon season, but was an exciting
navigational challengeduring this dry season in Myanmar. Visited several villages
and schools along the river and enjoyed the charm of the landscape, the riverside
temples and the distant sound of monks chanting. From Mandalay we flew back
to Yangon and on to the next tour, which covered Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos.
This Indochina tour began in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
There we visited the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, and the
University of Fine Arts to watch children learning the apsara, the complex steps
and choreography of the traditional Khmer ballet. Toured Tuol Sleng, the former
high school turned into a torture chamber by the Khmer Rouge, and the Killing
Fields of Cambodia. The Khmer Rouge killed approximately three million Cambodians
between 1976 and 1979. The monuments and museum dedicated to this horrible period
are quite moving, but also quite disturbing. Continued on to Siem Reap to see
the famous Angkor Wat with its incredible bas-reliefs. Rode an elephant to the
stunning Bayon Temple, a 12th century master-piece with superb carvings of warriors,
musicians, animals and scenes of everyday life. The next day toured Banteay
Srei or the citadel of women; a red sandstone temple built in the 10th century
and dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. Over the centuries the walls have faded
to various pastel shades ranging from reds to browns to greens.
Hanoi, Vietnam was our next stop with a visit to Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum. His
body is still on display in a glass coffin in a heavily guarded, temperature
controlled facility. Actually, he looks pretty good for he died almost 35 years
ago. He gets re-embalmed and touched up every year. Toured the Temple of Literature
founded in 1070. This temple, an excellent example of Vietnamese architecture,
housed Vietnam's first university, established in 1076 to educate the Mandarins.
Took an excursion to Halong Bay with its 3000 karst islands - a natural beauty
as impressive as the Three Gorges in China. Flew to Hue to visit the Imperial
citadel; took a boat ride on the Perfume River; and visited the tombs of Emperors
Tu Duc and Khai Dinh. Drove from Hue over the beautiful Pass of the Clouds to
Danang; stopping at the Cham Museum, a repository of some 300 sculptures on
the way to China Beach. Spent a morning touring Hoi An, a quaint old port town
with wooden houses, bridges and temples reminiscent of
a Vietnam of centuries past. On to Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon, to see
many more of the places made household names during the Vietnam War. Visited
the Cu Chi tunnels, the impressive underground city network built by the North
Vietnamese. In Saigon especially, but all over Vietnam, almost everyone travels
by motorcycle. There are literally thousands of them - very fascinating to see
hundreds of bikes at
a traffic light waiting for it to change green, but also a pedestrian's nightmare
when crossing the street.
On New Year's Day flew to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. Serene and timeless,
Laos is one of Asia's most unchanged countries. Saw several more Wats or temples,
the Buddhist shrine Pha That Luang which is a national symbol of Lao sovereignty,
and several exciting and wildly colorful markets which were a delight to the
olfactory senses. The last stop on the Indochina tour was the sleepy little
town of Luang Prabang on the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, nestled in a beautiful
mountain setting. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is fittingly called one of
the last Shangri-Las of Southeast Asia. Watched the daily early morning ritual
of hundreds of saffron-clad monks with their black alms bowls being given offerings
from the local people. Took a peaceful voyage down the Mekong River passing
many small villages on the way to the Pak-Ou
caves. Hollowed out of massive limestone cliffs, the caves are full of gilded
Buddhas of all shapes and sizes. The guided tour ended here in Luang Prabang,
but we flew on to Chiangmai, Thailand for three days and then two days in Bangkok
to visit some of the sights we missed on our previous trip to Thailand.
These are just some of the main highlights of these two incredible tours. Saw
many other places in addition to those briefly mentioned above; the 38 rolls
of film are a testament to our enjoyment of this latest adventure.
© 2007 Yale University Library
This file last modified 03/31/04
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